DOI 10.60531/INSIGHTOUT.2023.1.5| TAVAKOLI: BUTTA LA PASTICHE!_ INSIGHTOUT 1(2023) 32but on how their food is bred, raised, slaughtered, and sold.IntroductionIn hisPhysiology of Taste; or, Transcendental Gastronomy,19th century lawyer and epicure Jean AnthelmeBrillat-Savarin gives a definition of the figure of thegastronome. In a series of prefatory aphorisms, hewrites:“The destiny of nations depends upon themanner in which they are fed.”1Brillat-Savarin is descriptive rather than prescriptive here, observingsome general truth about the time in which he livedand ate. Nonetheless, the aphorism begs the question: Can the future of a nation be strengthened,undermined, or in any way altered or redirected bymanipulating the diet of its body politic?In 2013, butcher-poet Dario Cecchini travelled fromhis native Chianti Hills in central Tuscany, Italy, toCopenhagen, Denmark, where—in a circus tent setup on the harbour island of Refshaleøen—he recited Dante and slaughtered a pig. It was a politicalperformance: a call to bear witness to an existentialthreat looming over a racial minority whose members are scattered all over the globe—a race of localButchers. In this tent and for this audience, the futureof nations depends not only on how its members eatThis is a paper about sociotechnical systems constructed aroundlocal or geographically indicatedfoods and the imaginaries thatare baked into them. I raise thequestion of how sociotechnicalimaginaries that both give riseto, and emerge out of, such foodsnaturalise social categories ofcommunity, culture, or state insuch a manner that once flexible(cultural) practices are ossified in place and time. I combineScience and Technology Studiesliterature on sociotechnical imaginaries with the anthropological concept of Gastronationalism to askhow the feeding of a nation becomes proxy for thenourishment of a body politic. Furthermore, I queerthe timelines along which these sociotechnical imaginings unfold. Rather than invoking the future tobear upon the present, the sociotechnical narrativescomposed around food set their referent in the past,tacking between what has been and what is yet tobe, with the present existing as an incidental pointon their arc. What is strange here is not that the pastplays a role in the imagining of the nation in the present. This has been well described by scholars suchas Benedict Anderson and Eric Hobsbawm as a component of national narratives or tradition-making.What is strange is that this queer unfolding of time,so clearly described in these texts from the fields ofpolitical science and history, has been completelyoverlooked in discussions of sociotechnical imaginaries, even where those imaginaries participate in themaking of an image of(sociotechnical) nations. Thetimeline of the sociotechnical imaginary appears tobe one where the future hangs over the present, the1Brillat-Savarin, The Physiology of Taste; or, Transcendental Gastronomy, trans. Fayette Robinson(Philadelphia, 1854), 25.